First, it is not that easy to find the Laos customs building. Lush forest. Brum. Break. Wasn't there a customs sign? U-turn.
Could that little bamboo hut be the official customs building?
Yes! It can.
Although the customs staff is currently having lunch break, the Carnet exit stamps and all necessary signatures are quickly received.
Elmar nearly got a blind passenger on his spare seat.
Laos Emigration is next.
"One Lola!"
"Yes, first the stamps and then we talk about Lola, whoever this lady is."
Stamps received.
"One Lola!"
Good morning Elmar! Ring ring.
"Do we get an official receipt for the one Dollar 'special processing fee'?"
The officer has some kind of faked blue receipts and just wants to issue two of them.
"I think we are done now, Mister?"
No denying from official side.
"Have a nice day."
Lao paperworks takes us altogether 15 minutes.
The following Immigration to the 'Kingdom of Cambodia' takes Bjoern and Elmar 4 hours.
"Welcome to Cambodia!"
"Friendly Immigration Officer", we think ourselves.
"Please follow the Customs Officer first."
No "Welcome", no smile.
An officer with apathetic eyes and shabby clothes in front of a run down bamboo hut and already drunken at noon.
"5 Dollar!"
"First stamp the Carnet. We will then pay 5 Dollars each if we receive an official receipt."
Duty done.
"5 Dollar!"
"Receipt?"
"Cambodia no receipt!"
"No receipt, no 5 Dollar!"
Back to Immigration.
Visa is already in the passport.
"Could you please stamp the passport?"
"I could, but Customs has problems with your bikes!"
"This is our problem. Two separate stories. Person and passport one side. Bike and Carnet on the other side. Two different duties. Immigration and Customs."
By coincidence, the customs officer got Bjoerns Carnet and wouldn't return it, hiding in his hut. The officer wants Elmars Carnet also.
"Yellow book on table!"
We try to get it back. First by negotiating, then by force. The officer throws stones and water after us. We take everything on video and take pictures of the car number plate and the officer number on the shirt.
Elmar drives back to the Laos Immigration for clarifying things. From Cambodia to Laos, in this direction, there is no "Visa on Arrival" available. We are stuck in no man's land.
"No worries. We will cancel the exit stamp. And if you have to stay overnight, come to us. Food and water available."
Whow! Chilled out and relaxed Laos. And this after we denied the officer his "Lola"!
Bjoern calls the German Embassy in Phnom Penh and explains the situation. They will contact Customs in Phnom Penh.
Later, the superintendent comes out of his office and clarifies things. We will get the Carnet back if we delete all pictures and movies.
Bingo. Phnom Penh already called.
Page # 6 in the Carnet is missing. The one with the Cambodian stamps.
Bjoern calls the German AAA (ADAC).
"No problem, if Thailand stamps again correct on page # 7."
Conclusion:
We did not pay!
Was it worth the time and the hazzle?
No!
But the situation with the stolen Carnet was that absurd, there was no way back and forward.
Advice:
Calling the embassy for help without a stolen Carnet does not make sense.
Response will be: "Pay and enjoy Cambodia. It is a corrupt country. Maybe the worst on earth. We know these guys."
We would underline this statement.
Alternative possibility for low budget travellers:
- Get Cambodian Visa in advance in Vientiane (1 day processing and 20 $ US).
- Go first to Cambodia Immigration and get the passport stamped (maybe park bike at Laos border and walk to the Cambodia Immigration).
- Get the Carnet stamped afterwards, pointing out that the 5 Dollar 'special processing fee' will be paid if receiving an official receipt.
- Go back to Immigration and ask kindly for opening the barrier to pass.
- If Immigration would not do so, wait for the next car to arrive and just pass or drive your bike around the barrier. What should they do? Nothing! Everything is legal. They just did their duty what they are paid for (and this is not much, 50 $ US per month).
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