For our English-speaking friends - Laos

At "Chiang Kong" (Thailand) we don't take the slowboat to "Luang Prabang" (Laos), as most of the backpackers do. We cross the "Mekong River" by ferry. We get our visa on arrival and the insurance for the bikes. Customs expects a fee, but can't explain why. Joerg and Elmar ask for a receipt and suddenly we can pass without paying the fee. Nice try, though!

Laos is a lot more laidback than Thailand but that's what makes its beauty. The Chinese-Thai-built-roads are very good, Lao-built ones aren't. There's a lot of slash and burn agriculture and the smoke of the fires becloud the sky. Sunset at noon!

From "Huay Xai" it's a pleasant 200 km drive through the mountains to "Luang Nam Tha". This small town, only 20 km from China as the bird flys, is the perfect base for trekking, but we don't have time to stay longer, as we will see Megan and Rich in "Luang Prabang". They were part of our group in Cappadocia (Turkey) and it now seems, as our tracks would meet again.

"Luang Prabang" we like a lot. First of all, and thanks to the French, there is the proper breakfast: Nutella-baguette and Lao-coffee at the morning market! You'd love it!
Then there's the cosy atmosphere, the location between two rivers and the french colonial style houses.
And last but not least, meeting our friends again!!! Thanks guys, we had a great time!

Centuries ago "Luang Prabang" was an independant kingdom. In the 1970ies the communists arrested king, queen and crown prince and forced them to work in the fields. They finally died of Malaria and malnutrition. Today the sights of the town are listed as world heritage. We visit "Wat Xieng Thong" and the "Royal Palace".

The town of "Vang Vieng", a little further south, is unattractive but beautifully settled between ragged karst rocks and irrigated ricepaddies. You can "tube" down the river, go rock climbing, kayaking or just walk around and discover the many hidden caves.
Most tourists however love to hang around in a hammock, drink excessively and smoke whatever is on sale.

While taking the bikes off-road at the other side of the river, Joerg's bike has a breakdown. A helpful farmer tows us back to town. As far as we find out, there's no workshop in Laos capable to repair our bike. This means that we have to tow the bike first to Vientiane (capital of Laos at the border to Thailand) and then to Bangkok.
After a sleepless night we find a group of young people, who - for a nice "little" pocket-money - take us down to the border. There we will have to push the bike over the friendship bridge (3 km at around noon...)on our own.
Neither AAA nor BMW cover worldwide costs, but they later organise a towing-truck being sent to the border, taking us the 680 km to Bangkok.
While Elmar tries to catch up on Bjoern, Anja and Holger in Vientiane. They too travel on motorbikes.
Joerg and Annette start on a 21 hour trip to Bangkok where they arrive at 4 o'clock in the morning. By nine they are informed, that they can't be looked after, because the company is moving to a new showroom that day. But luckily they arrange transport to another company in town.
By four pm they finally know what's wrong with their bike: the drive shaft is broken - 3 weeks delivery time and 700 Euros!!!
They ask a friend in Germany to send the parts via DHL Express: 4 days and 700 Euros!!! That sounds a lot better!

To shorten their time of waiting Annette and Joerg book a 4-day-bus-trip to Cambodia. Why should they miss out on Ankor Wat?

The parcel from Germany is ahead of time so when they get back to Bangkok the bike has already been repaired.

The next few days they spend working on the blog and shopping and wait for Elmar, who travels Laos and Cambodia as originally planned.